We will all remember the early days of July as cold and wet and totally untypical of the season, and I must confess that like so many other wimps I turned on the central heating on more than one evening. But we tend to remember the unpleasant things in life and in actual fact it was cold only for a relatively short time, it was certainly wet, but generally warm, and these weather conditions usually encourage some species of fungi to make an appearance. I reckoned it was time to have a serious foray for some of the most eye-catching and gastronomically pleasing of all the free food that is available to us in this most magnificent of forests.

I decided to disregard the many jobs that required attention and, in case I should change my mind, I quickly took my basket, stick and knife, together with my motley crew of dogs and off we went into the nearby wood to see what we could find. Two hours later I returned with a marvellous haul of Chantrelle, Hedgehogs, Ceps and Oyster mushrooms.

Mushroom hunting is a truly rewarding hobby and where better to indulge oneself than in the New Forest where the many and varied habitats support enumerable species of fungi, some edible and some definitely not. You may wish to stick to the mundane selection of mushroom varieties that are available in the supermarkets or you may choose to get off your bottom and go onto the Forest and collect the much tastier wild fungi that are there for the taking. However, if you should decide to become a mushroom gatherer then there are certain rules that must be followed.

There may be up to 12,000 species of fungi in this country, many of which are edible, most are not worthy of the table and a few are, without doubt, deadly. These fungi take many forms and they play a vital part in nature, they help to break down dead animals and plants thereby creating the food needed by living plants and animals. The fruiting bodies provide food and shelter for many insects and animals and some yield the drugs and antibiotics that have saved so many lives. So we must, for many reasons, proceed with caution.

The best way by far to begin to learn about fungi is be shown by someone that knows the subject, so tag along with any experienced mycologist if you can, or enrol in one of the Forestry Commission’s guided mushroom walks where you will be shown many fungi by an expert.

A good reference book is essential and the one that is regarded as the mushroom gatherers Bible is “Mushrooms and other fungi of Great Britain and Europe” by Roger Phillips and published by Pan Books. For further information and recipes try “A passion for mushrooms” by Antonio Carluccio and “The mushroom feast” by Jane Grigson.

Some parts of the Forest are inviolate and fungi collecting in these areas is not permitted. There will usually be a sign to this effect but if you are in any doubt then consult your local Keeper. Pick only enough fungi for your own consumption; the recommended limit is no more than 1.5 kg per visit. You will need a light stick for probing under the bracken and leaf litter together with a sharp knife to cut off your prizes at ground level. By cutting the fungus you will avoid contaminating with soil the gills and pores of the other mushrooms in your basket and you will not damage the delicate, underground mycelium. Always gather your mushrooms in a wicker basket, don’t carry them in a plastic bag, they will sweat and lose condition quite rapidly.

Before you start make sure that you can identify the mushrooms that you are after. The four species mentioned above would be good starters for the beginner; they are all common in the forest and are easily identified. Always take a reference book with you and never pick any fungus that you cannot recognise and never put an unknown fungus in the basket with those that you intend to eat. Make sure that you can identify the poisonous species as well as the edible ones and do not disturb mushrooms that you do not intend to pick; they play an important parting the general ecology of the forest.

Finally, I cannot emphasise enough how careful you have to be with mushrooms. A lack of caution could lead to serious gastric disorder and in some cases an unpleasant death. The golden rule is that if you are the slightest unsure of a mushroom leave it alone, do not pick it and certainly do not eat it.

Good hunting.

Next week - how the residents of Burley Rails cope with a heatwave, the hot habits of a peculiar pet and how the cat dealt with an audacious charlie. See you on 21st!